| Black Hair Care Tips, Style and FAQs |
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This is a list of some
of the
questions we get most often concerning
black hair care. If you don't see your question answered
here,
feel free to e-mail us and we will get an answer back to you as soon as
possible. At the end of this article, there are links to
other
sites that have more information on black hair care.
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FAQs
African
American Hair Structure
What's different about
our hair?
Why do we need different
products and routines? African hair is made of the same
“stuff”
as non-African hair. The difference
lies in the way those components are put together or the structure
of our hair. The structure of our hair can cause it to be
more
prone to breakage and dryness. Because of this, black hair
care
needs are different from those for other types of hair.
Our hair can have up to twice the amount of
“cuticle” or outer
layer. Our hair is kinkier which makes it more difficult for
the
oil secreted from our scalps to reach the ends of the hair.
But,
keep in mind there is a continuum of hair types. Especially
since
most of us are of mixed heritage, African American hair and bi-racial
people's hair can vary widely. Even within a single head of
hair,
there are different hair types. So, there is no one solution
for
the care of all African American hair. However, it is helpful
to
know, generally, what type of hair you have. This link http://www.ourhair.net
will
take you to a site where you can determine your hair type.
Intuitively, you might think African hair is "tougher" than Caucasian
hair and can handle more stress or abuse. After all, it is
coarser and thicker. Actually, African hair (especially if
treated like European hair) is more fragile than Caucasian hair.
For this reason, we suggest using products made especially
for
our hair, whenever possible. Today, there is a wide range of
excellent products made specifically for the needs of African American
or Textured hair.
Back to top
The parts that make up your hair are:
Cuticle: Outer layer of the hair.
It is made up of
layers of scales which interlock with the cells of the hair's inner
root sheath to firmly anchor it in the follicle. This is a
thin
and colorless layer. Black hairs cuticle layer can be twice
the
thickness of that of white hair.
Cortex: The middle layer. It is composed of cells
which are
tightly bound around one another. These bands provide the hair with
elasticity and strength and are very receptive to chemicals.
As a
result, they can easily be influenced (or damaged) by dyes and
relaxers.
Melanin: is contained in the cortex and is the
substance that
determines the color of our hair and skin. The more melanin, the darker
the hair or skin.
Follicle: This is the name for
hair before it emerges from the skin. Follicles are composed
of many elements including carbon, hydrogen and oxygen. Healthy amounts
of these elements can improve the hairs' condition and appearance once
it emerges.
Sebaceous/Sudoniferous Glands:
Attached to the hair follicle are the sebaceous (oil) and the
sudoriferous (sweat) glands. The sebaceous glands open and
close continuously to release a waxy sebum oil into the hair
follicle and onto the scalp. The sudoriferous glands contain many small
structures with porous openings leading to the skin. They
produce substances which dry on the skin including salts, acids, water
and bacteria. If not completely dissolved and effectively removed
from the scalp, they can help cause severe itching and dandruff.
Thus,
the scalp problems some people experience in the early stages of locs.
How
does a
relaxer work?
Time for a really quick
science
lesson (keep reading, it will be really
quick and painless, I promise). There is a scale called a pH
scale. It ranges from 0-14. Water is right in the
middle
with a pH of 7 and is "neutral" (neither
acidic or basic). Substances with higher pH are called alkali, caustic
or basic. Solutions with lower pH are called acidic. The
farther
from the number 7 (either high or low), the more the solution will do
in terms of burning or breaking chemical bonds. The pH scale
is a
logarithmic scale. What that means is a whole number
difference
is greater than you might think. A solution that is pH 8 is
ten
times more basic than a solution that is ph 7. One that is a
pH 5 is 100 times more acidic than a pH 7. That's as far as we need to
go
for our purposes. End of lesson. Relaxers, whether
lye
or no lye, have a very high pH (very near the top of the
scale).
In other words, they are caustic.
Relaxers work on the same principle as commercial products like Liquid
Plumr ® that you'd buy to remove hair
from your sink or
drain. Relaxers break the hair down. Relaxers work
because
they break the bonds that actually give strength to the hair.
This causes the hair to straighten. Therefore,
relaxed hair
is, by definition, weaker than natural hair. Relaxers also
deplete the hair of sebum (the oil your scalp secretes).
Combine that with heat and you can really end up with a
problem.
That's why it is of the utmost importance to be careful when putting in
relaxers and to give relaxed hair the best care possible.
Does this mean we are against relaxers? Absolutely not.
If
a quality relaxer is applied properly and the
hair is maintained properly, your hair can definitely be healthy.
However, your hair will be weaker than if it were natural
and will be more prone to problems. These problems are not
insurmountable as long as you are aware of how to take care of your
hair.
Many people have asked us why we don't sell relaxers. Our
policy
is that we do not sell relaxers because we think they should be applied
by a professional in a salon setting. Back
to top
Are no lye
relaxers better and/or milder?
There is a myth that
no-lye relaxers
take all the
worry out of straightening the hair. Pardon the pun, but
that's a lie (lye). No-lye relaxers are more gentle on the
scalp.
But, the FDA (Food & Drug Administration) has
received
complaints of scalp irritation from no-lye relaxers as well as lye
relaxers. The same safety precautions apply to both. Lye
relaxers
contain sodium hydroxide as the active ingredient. With no-lye
relaxers, calcium hydroxide and guanidine carbonate are mixed to
produce guanidine hydroxide. It's the hydroxide that makes the relaxer
reactive (basic)
and the way they work is the same. Many people have reported
no-lye relaxers leave their hair more dull and have gone back to lye
relaxers. If you're having problems with scalp irritation
using a
lye relaxer, you might want to try a no-lye relaxer. But,
don't
believe that it's somehow more healthy for your hair. Back to top
How about natural
relaxers?
There are products on the market that call themselves "natural
relaxers". We have gotten many questions about them.
After
doing a lot of research, we have finally found a natural relaxer we can
sell with confidence. That relaxer is the Natural-Laxer
MIXTM from Baka
Beauty Products. However, the term "relaxer", in this case,
may
be misleading. We think that may be why the natural relaxers
have
gotten a bad rap.
The natural relaxer we sell is an all herbal hair treatment.
It
is kind of an herbal texturizer. It is not
a straightener. You simply are not going to get kinky black
hair
to become bone straight in an "all natural" way. What our
relaxer
does is gradually allow the natural curl pattern to relax.
This
causes the hair to be less kinky and somewhat straighter. It
also
makes
the hair softer. Some interesting side effects of this
relaxer is
that you end up
with less tangles, less breakage and the hair is actually strengthened
and encouraged to grow by the relaxer. The relaxer also helps
prevent
reversion of pressed hair. The relaxer works with a
cumulative
effect.
After the first application or two, the differences will be
subtle,
but noticeable. Over time, the relaxer makes the hair softer
and
softer. This is an excellent treatment for damaged permed
hair,
an
aid in transition from perms to natural hair or a conditioner/detangler
for natural hair. Back
to top
What
do I look
for in a stylist to put in my
relaxer?
First of all, find
someone with hair
you like and ask her where she
gets her hair done. If she lets you touch her hair, touch it
to
make sure it's healthy (please ask first!). Talk to the
stylist
before you make an appointment. Make sure she seems
professional
and knows what she's doing. A bad perm is a
horrible thing.
You could end
up with damaged hair, bald or even permanently disfigured.
And,
remember a perm is permanent. Mess one up and that hair is
ruined
permanently (until you cut it off).
Before she begins:
- She should check the condition of your hair and scalp
before
she begins. If your hair is weak
or your scalp has any cuts, scrapes or sores, she should not do
the perm. A perm on already weak hair can cause your hair
to break off. A perm on a scalp that is not healthy can be
absorbed
into the body and cause problems.
- She should check for allergic reaction and test the perm
on a
strand of your hair
- She should choose a perm appropriate
for your type of hair. Not all relaxers are the same. Some
are more reactive (stronger) than others. The stylist should
consider- whether your hair has been relaxed before (touch up or
retouch), whether your hair has never been relaxed (virgin), whether
your hair is colored and whether your hair is fine or coarse.
- She should protect your skin (and clothes) with a cape
and or a
towel
- She should protect your scalp with a
jelly or thick cream
Once she begins:
- Once the stylist starts applying your perm, she should
pay
attention to your head and not talking on
the phone, taking lunch breaks or attending to other clients.
Applying a perm requires her complete attention.
She should
work
quickly to avoid over-relaxing your hair and/or burning your skin.
- Retouches should only be done on new
growth. This is a common mistake people make when putting
in perms at home. I know I used to. Do not
keep relaxing the ends of your hair over and over again.
- Your stylist should use a timer (and
pay attention to the timer). It's always better to leave
the hair a little underdone than overdone. Even with the
timer, she should check your hair continuously.
After she's done:
- She should rinse your hair very well with warm
water.
- She should wash your hair with a neutralizing shampoo.
It's important to use a shampoo with a lower pH to neutralize
the
high pH of the relaxer. The reason this is important is the
pH of
the neutralizing shampoo stops the reaction of the lye. Using
a
regular shampoo will allow your hair to continue to break down beyond
the point where you want it to be.
- She should rinse your hair again.
- Before it is dried, she should deep condition the hair
- She should handle your hair gently as she's drying and
styling
it.
Back to top
Can
I remove a
relaxer from my hair?
If you've read this far,
you probably
already realize the answer is
"no". Permanents are called permanent for good reason.
The
bonds in the hair are destroyed
when the hair is relaxed. The part of the hair that has been
relaxed will never be "natural" again. The only way
to get rid of relaxed hair is to cut it off or wait for it to break
off. Waiting for the hair to break off is not a good
transition
option. But, some women choose it because they are
uncomfortable
giving up the length they've worked hard to get. There are
ways
to transition from relaxed hair to natural hair. But, the
relaxed
hair will never be natural again. Back to
top
What
is my hair
type?
You may ask "Why should
I care?"
Well, mostly you shouldn't.
But, knowing your hair type will allow you talk with others
and
research products, styles and regimens that are best for your
particular hair. There are controversies surrounding hair
type
methodologies that use works like kinky, nappy and other words that
have less than positive connotations for some people. Others
that
use numbers, tend to lump all African American hair into one
big category. There is a system called LOIS that uses the
hair shape as the defining hair "type". For more on LOIS, see
http://www.ourhair.net/hairtype.htm
Until many people switch over to the LOIS system, there is
the
numbering system by Andre Walker. That is described at the
same
web-site. Back to top
What are the
hair care basics?
You should picture your
hair as a
collection of fine fibers. You
should treat it as gently as you would a fine washable silk blouse.
The better you treat your hair, the easier it will be to grow
and
the better it will look. African hair will tend to be dryer and more
prone to breakage because the structure makes it more difficult for the
oils to work their
way from the scalp to the ends of the hair. If you relax your
hair, you've weakened the hair and reduced the ability for the scalp to
naturally oil it. The points where the hair curls and twists are
also points where the hair tends to break. The more of these
points (as in African hair), the more the hair is prone to
breakage. Also, because our hair is kinky, it tends
to
tangle more and pulling these tangles out can cause breakage.
- Either section the hair and plait
it, tie it back or wrap it up using a scarf before going to bed, this
will reduce the number of tangles you have to comb out the next
morning, reducing the chances of breaking your hair.
- Sleep with a satin scarf or sleep cap on your head or with
a
satin pillow case. This helps avoid split ends caused by the
rubbing of your hair against a "rough" cotton pillow case. It
also avoids moisture being wicked out of your hair into your cotton
pillow case.
- Wash your hair no more often than every week to week and a
half.
More than that can dry it out.
- Comb your hair out while you're conditioning it to remove
the
tangles while it's wet and relatively slick.
- Oil your scalp on a regular basis
with a good natural oil like shea butter. A daily moisturizer
is not a bad idea.
- Do a deep conditioner or hot oil treatment once a month.
- Massage your scalp on a regular basis to promote
circulation and
oil production.
- Avoid overuse of products with mineral oil or petroleum.
They tend to block the pores and are not readily absorbed.
If your mother used Vaseline®
on your hair, stop.
- If you exercise and sweat, rinse the salt out of your hair
even
if you don't wash it. Condition it afterwards with a daily
leave-in conditioner.
- Always use a leave-in conditioner
after washing your hair.
- Put as little heat as possible on
your hair. Heat, especially combined with perms is
very damaging to hair.
- Avoid alcohol based products unless you have a need for a
water-free shampoo to cleanse your scalp (for example while you're
waiting for your locks to lock).
- Remember that water (moisture) is your friend and
get
plenty- inside and out. If you used
to press your hair or blow it out and learned to fear water on
your hair because it would draw up, you need to get over this.
Spritzing a little water on your hair every day is a good
idea.
Get a spray bottle and just spray it just a little.
- Eat a proper diet. Vitamins and protein are
essential for
proper hair growth. We have nutritional supplements specifically
designed for hair and skin health. Hair
Growth Supplements
- Find a style that works with your natural hair type and
growth
pattern. The less you work against your hair, the less
stressed
it will be.
- Do not relax your hair until it is
bone straight.
This is just asking for trouble. Why relax your
hair until
it has absolutely no body or curl and then put heat on it to try to get
that curl back?
Some tools you should have in your kit
- A good shampoo: They will be more
expensive. But, they'll use more gentle cleansers and
be more concentrated. You may find they save you money
in the long run. And, your hair will definitely show the
difference. We offer several.
- A good acidifier (a conditioner with a low pH): Acidifying
the
hair adds shine and detangles.
- A good hot oil treatment or deep conditioner: It
is an
all natural based shea butter treatment. Apply the
conditioner or
hot oil treatment to the hair and scalp, cover
with a plastic cap and sit under a dryer for 15-20 minutes.
Alternatively, you can wrap your head in a towel.
Then wash
the hair thoroughly. This is very important for dry brittle
hair. We have several here: Hair
Repair
Products
- A good leave in conditioner or daily moisturizer:
This is
what you'll put on your hair after you've thoroughly cleaned it to
continue to provide oil and moisture.
- A comb for your hair type. Don't
try to drag one of those skinny toothed combs through your natural
kinky or curly hair. You'll just end up pulling it out and
breaking it off.
- A good boar bristle brush (use sparingly though)
- A spray bottle to mist your hair
- A scarf, cap, or wrap to wear on your head at night- or a
satin
pillow case (well, two)
How
do I deep
condition my hair?
A good hot oil treatment
or deep
conditioner is essential. Hair
Repair
Products Apply the conditioner or hot oil treatment
to
the hair and scalp, cover with a plastic cap and sit under a dryer for
15-20 minutes. Alternatively, you can wrap your head in a
towel.
Then wash the hair thoroughly. This is very
important for dry brittle hair.
Which oils should
I use (and avoid)?
Oils, pomades, daily
moisturizers,
leave-in conditioner and creams will
make the hair feel more soft and flexible. They are
particularly
important to be added to permed hair which has been stripped of some of
its ability to
oil itself. Mineral oil and petroleum use should be minimized
or
avoided. These products can tend to clog the pores, are
not easily absorbed into the hair and attract dust. If you
use
products with these oils, try to use the ones that have the least
amount. Generally, the further down the ingredient list, the
less
there will be in a product. So, try to use products where
these
are listed near the end.
Some natural oils to try are shea butter, jojoba oil, olive oil, and
sunflower oil. We have a great selection of oils,
pomades
and moisturizers for every hair type and style.
Oils are best applied to wet hair to help hold in the moisture already
there. Creams or leave-in conditioners can be used on days
when
you don't wash or wet your hair. The type of oil or cream you
use
in your hair is going to depend on your hair type and may take a little
it of experimenting to find what works best for you. Also, the time of
year and your hair's exposure to the elements will vary your routine.
Back to top
How
often should I
wash my hair?
This will depend on your
hair type
and how
prone your hair is to drying or becoming oily. As we said
earlier, not all African Americans have the same type of hair.
Generally speaking, our hair tends to be dry and shampooing
too often will worsen that. Rinsing your hair with plain
water
every day and washing once every week to ten days works for most
of us. Bi-racial people may want to wash their hair more
often as
it may tend to be more oily. BTW, when you dry your hair,
do not rub it. Rubbing your hair can cause breakage.
Blot
it with a towel. Back to top
How
do I handle
natural hair?
If you have super curly,
kinky or
(dare
we say it?) nappy hair, your hair is best handled wet. You
may
find it easiest to comb it with a wide tooth comb while in the shower.
Give up on that skinny little European comb and get one made
for
your hair. Try to avoid combing your hair while dry as the
comb
will tend to catch and break the hair. If you need to
comb your hair while it's dry, be gentle. Try to spritz with
some
water or a cream first. You can use an unbraid product like Black
Earth's Protective Mist Bodifier or Royal Roots Detangler.
If
you're unbraiding your hair and get to some tangles, pull them loose
with your fingers before you go on combing. Other than this,
follow the basic guidelines above. Back
to top
Why is my natural hair
so dull looking?
This is a question we get quite often. First, we need to set
some
expectations.
With the obvious caveats about how we all have different hair
types
due to our diverse ancestries, Natural African hair is going to appear
more
dull than Caucasian hair or even permed hair. It's just the
structure
of our hair. Our cuticles on our hair, because of the
curvature
do
not lay flat. Flat cuticles reflect light better making that hair
appear
shinier. If you try to make your hair shine like someone with
permed
hair or a White person, you're going to end up making a mess of your
hair.
Having said that, we can make our natural hair look very healthy.
There
are two things that many of don't get enough of on our hair- Water and
Oil.
Make sure you are drinking plenty of fluids and wash your
hair
often
enough (as described elsewhere in this paper). Make sure you
are
oiling
your hair with good, natural oils that the hair can absorb.
Too
much
of the wrong kind of oils, can actually damage the ability of the hair
to
absorb moisture and make the hair appear even more dull.
Natural
African
hair is beautiful. But, it must be maintained properly to be and appear
healthy.
How
do I handle
permed hair?
First of all, make sure
you have a
good stylist. If you do apply
your perm at home (which we do not encourage), be sure you follow the
directions religiously. Make sure
you apply touch ups only to new growth. Do not overlap the
perm
on to the already permed hair. Follow the general
directions for hair care above.
Now...
- Dry your hair slowly and with as little heat as
possible.
I try to allow a couple of hours to wash my hair. I
wash it
and towel blot it. I apply a hair and scalp oil.
Then, I walk around the house for a couple of
hours and let it air dry as much as possible. Finally, I blow
it dry the rest of the way and begin my conditioning and styling
routine.
- Wet your hair as much as possible (at least twice a
week).
Spritz it with water daily or rinse it in the shower every
day or
two.
- Use a leave-in conditioner and/or moisturizing pomade.
Again, this is especially important for relaxed hair as
you've
stripped the hair of some of its ability to oil
itself and its protection against moisture loss.
- Have your hair trimmed on a regular basis (whenever you
have a
perm applied). If your ends split, this split can travel
along
the hair shaft causing damage to the hair further up. Don't
hang
on to damaged hair for the sake of its length. If your hair
has
been damaged by a bad perm or general abuse, trim it back and let the
healthy hair grow out to make up for it. Keeping the damaged
hair
around can actually begin to damage the healthy hair.
- Touch up frequency will vary depending on your
hair type
and how fast it grows. I need to go pretty often.
Two to
three months is fairly normal.
Back to top
Should
I go
permed or natural?
You didn't really think
we were going
to answer this one. Did
you? This is one of the hottest debates I've run across in
years.
Our job is to inform you and let you make the best decision
for
yourself. There are pros
and cons to each. This is a highly personal decision.
Don't
go natural to please those sisters who think all women who wear perms
are selling out to the white man and have low self esteem.
Don't
wear a perm because you feel that going natural is a political
statement that you don't want to make. Having said that, the
reality is that if you go natural, some people will assume certain
things about your political and social points of view. If you
wear a perm, some people will think you have low self esteem.
Permed or Relaxed
- Generally the norm in the U.S.
- Easy to style the hair
- Hard on the hair- works by actually breaking the hair down
- Require diligent care to keep the hair healthy
Natural
- Back to nature
- Some do it for religious reasons (locks) or political
reasons-
you may be lumped into this category by strangers
- Have cost some people jobs- a man was fired for wearing
locks
(upheld in court). A woman was fired for wearing two-strand
twists.
- May require greater self esteem to put up with the looks
and
comments
- Better for the hair
- Easier to maintain
- Less styling options (debatable)
Back to top
How
do I
transition from relaxed to
natural
hair?
This one is a very
frequently asked
question. We get calls and
e-mails from people hoping we can tell them what they want to hear.
The true answer is there is no really quick or easy way.
To
reiterate (in case you haven't read
the other questions). A relaxer is permanent. It
cannot be
removed. There are no products that will remove a relaxer
(other
than scissors). If you want to just grow your hair out to a
natural state, be prepared for breakage. Baka Beautiful's Natural-Laxer
Plus
is a great product if you want to maintain your length while
transitioning. We cannot guarantee there will be no breakage.
But, the Natural-Laxer can definitely help minimize it.
There are three good ways to transition:
- Cut off the relaxed hair- depending on
how
much new growth and your preferences you have a few styling options.
You can wear a TWA (tweeny weeny afro) or two strand twists
pretty
easily with almost any length hair. For other styling ideas,
see http://www.ourhair.net
or
http://www.hairweb.com
- Braids and/or extensions- you can have
your hair braided
until it grows to a length where you feel comfortable cutting off the
new growth and going with other styling options
- SisterlocksTM-
SisterLocks can be started
with one and one half inches of new growth at the scalp. They
are
similar to dread locks but with a look more like micro braids or very
small twists. They leave you with many styling options.
For
more information (including pictures) go to http://www.sisterlocks.com
- Find a transition style-
This great tip was given to us by one of our customers. "I
just
wanted to send you another hair styling option for those who don't know
what
to do while growing out a perm and going natural. I recently did this
and
when my roots began growing out, I would wet my hair and add oil to it,
then braid it while it was wet (Black Earth's Crinkles & Curls
Styling
Lotion would be perfect for this). After it dried, my hair was left
wavy
and with lots of texture and this helped to blend the natural roots
with
the permed ends. It is important to keep your ends clipped regularly
during
this process so that your split ends do not continue up the hair shaft
and damage the natural hair. I was able to wear my hair like this until
I was comfortable with cutting all of my permed hair off and wearing my
'fro." (thanks Sheena!)
Trying to transition in
other ways,
like pressing the natural hair as
it grows in underneath the relaxed hair, are going to make your hair
prone to breakage and can damage the natural hair you're trying to grow
in. We do not recommend it. While transitioning,
try to
find a style that will accomodate the new growth coming in like twists
or braids.
Back to top
Is there a pill to
fix my hair problems?
The short
answer is "no". Well, actually, the answer is "yes and no".
Proper nutrition is essential for the
health of your hair and protein is necessary. We do offer
supplements that can help with the health of your hair and
skin. Hair
Growth Supplements
However,
there is no pill
that will overcome the damage you do
to you hair by not properly maintaining it. Taking proper
care of
your hair is the only way to ensure it will remain
healthy.
There is nothing you can put in your mouth or put
on your hair to make it begin growing like a chia pet (at least nothing
that you'd really want in your body or on your hair). The way
to
fix your hair problems is the old fashioned way "Earn it".
You've
got to develop a healthy regimen for your hair and stick to it.
Back to top
Is
there something
that will make my hair grow
really fast?
There are medications
that will make
your hair grow. For men, there is Minoxidil (aka
Rogaine®)
and Propecia®. For women, there is Rogaine.
There are
also supplements that can help with hair growth (see the link above for
our Hair Growth Supplements). If your
hair is damaged, your nutrition is not optimal (and whose is?) or you
have a scalp condition there are things that
can promote normal hair growth that will make it appear your hair
is growing faster. Also, if you hair is breaking off, it will
appear that it is not growing. By preventing that breakage,
your
hair will become longer. Before you run out and buy a super
pill
or an ointment, make sure you're doing the day-to-day things to give
your hair a chance to grow on its own.
Our Treasured
Locks H2G Hair Growth Serum is a topical (you rub it on your
scalp)
product that can help with hair growth. Our hair growth oil
is a
carefully selected blend of Emu Oil, Shea Butter Oil and other plant
oils along with some Essential Oils that have been clinically shown to
improve circulation, provide moisture, reduce inflammation and help
hair grow to its fullest potential. See our Hair
Growth Supplements for more information.
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How
do I care for
my child's hair?
The same basic
principles apply.
Find a good children's shampoo
if your child is very young (so that it won't burn the eyes).
However, as soon as you can, move away from these. They
tend to be drying for African American hair. I recommend
avoiding
perms for as long as possible. Children have more sensitive skin than
adults. The chemicals in the perms are more likely to damage
their skin and hair. Also, they don't usually have the
patience
to sit through the process of getting the perm. My stylist
told
me the story of a three year old girl she was trying to give a perm.
Once the perm was in, the child decided she was ready to
leave.
The stylist had to literally wrestle the child to rinse the
perm
out of her hair. My older daughter is almost six now and has
very
thick and coarse hair. Her hair is natural. I did a
lot of
research on the best way to care for it (one of the things that
motivated
me to open this store). I intend to leave her hair natural as
long
as possible. It's really not any more difficult to care for
than
if she had a perm. We use the natural relaxer on her hair to
make
it more manageable (not straight). That and just using the
basic
tips
above have made caring for her natural hair much easier, she has less
breakage
and tangles than she used to and we love the way her hair looks
natural.
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Should
I use only "natural" products?
First of all, natural is
a relative
term. Once you mix two
ingredients together, one could argue the product is not "all natural".
We believe that God put many wonderful things on this earth
to
take care of our bodies inside and out. Generally, speaking
the
less refined or manipulated a product the better. However, we
also believe God gave man the ability to improve on his environment and
some chemical formulations (especially medicines) are extremely
beneficial. We promote products that we believe are healthy
for
your hair. All things being equal, we prefer natural products
over highly refined products. Even when man tries to recreate
nature by manufacturing or refining products (as in the case of
multivitamins versus fresh fruits or vegetables) he often damages the
delicate trace substances in or leaves things out. However,
all
natural products will be less stable, may not look as nice, will be
more expensive and will have shorter shelf lives than less natural
products. If you like a lot of lather, you may be
disappointed
with all natural shampoos. So, the decision is really up to
you.
We use both all natural product and less natural products.
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What
is Shea
Butter?
We're glad you asked.
Shea
Butter is a natural moisturizer
derived from the nut of a tree (the Karite tree) that grows exclusively
in West Africa. It is highly prized for its
benefits to both hair and skin. It can treat a variety of
skin
conditions including eczema, psoriasis, dry skin, stretch marks,
etc. I personally have used it to eliminate an allergic
reaction
to the sun I've had for the past 10 years or so (every summer).
My
sister-in-law and another friend (with different sun sensitivities)
have experiences the same thing. Shea Butter is easily
absorbed
into the hair and skin and can be used on the face also (it's
non-greasy). For more details, see
http://www.treasuredlocks.com/shebutben.html
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How
can I regrow
lost hair?
That depends on how and
why you lost
your hair. It's easier for
us to tell you what not to do than what to do.
Do not go
for any "miracle" cures. Anything that claims it can grow
hair on
a cue ball should be avoided. Our Hair
Growth Supplements are very effective for a variety of types
of
hair loss. But, they will not cure all baldness.
Minoxidil
has been shown to be
effective
for women with a certain type of hair loss. If you think you
need
Minoxidil, you should see your doctor.
If you're a male an have lost your hair due to the natural aging
process, please do not spend tons of money on things that
don't work. There are only two medically proven
treatments.
One is Finasteride (aka Propecia). Propecia is a blood
pressure medication that has the side effect of growing hair.
The
other is Minoxidil. Both work in about 30-40% of cases and
both
only work on what is called male pattern baldness (thinning from the
crown of the head). Minoxidil has worked, in combination with
other treatments, on frontal balding. But, not often enough
for
the FDA to allow the manufacturer to make the claim. Both
drugs
must be taken forever, to continue to be effective. Any gains
made by the drugs will go away within a few weeks if they are
discontinued. Propecia has been known to cause sexual
dysfunction
in a small
number of patients. Minoxidil has been known to cause scalp
irritation. Minoxidil must be applied every day (two
times/day is
better)
directly to the scalp and massaged in. Due to the hassle,
cost,
possible side effects and limited effectiveness of both drugs whether
you take them is a personal choice. If you ever see my
husband,
you'll see he opted to let nature take its course. Back
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Where can I find
some good hair styles for me?
How
do I start and
maintain locks?
The answers to this
question could
fill a book or at least an entire
website. We've found two good sources we like. http://www.perfectdreads.com
gives detailed information about how to start dreads. http://www.naani.com
also has excellent information on maintaining dreads.
What
ingredients
should I avoid?
There are several
"ingredients to
avoid" lists out
there. Here are some of the ingredients we found on those
lists and why they're there. Some of our products do contain
ingredients on the "avoid" list. Why? Frankly,
there are
very, very few products that do not contain at least some of these
ingredients. It has been estimated that 99% of cosmetic
products
contain some form of paraben (a preservative). If you think
that's scary, after looking at this list, look at your toothpaste and
deodorant ingredients.
So, avoiding these ingredients is extremely difficult.
If you do find completely natural alternatives, they're
probably
going to be expensive and may have a short shelf life. Your
choices are going to be limited. While researching this
topic,
we found a source with some very harsh warnings. It could
almost
make you scared to put anything in your mouth or on your body
(including
just plain old soap). The site listed some frequently asked
questions,
which were mainly "What should I use instead?" They had
almost
no answers for anything. This highlights how difficult it is
to
completely
avoid these ingredients. And, it's debatable whether you
should
even try. Our philosophy is do what you can to avoid high
concentrations of these ingredients and look for natural alternatives
where available.
We present this list to you as a guide for your reference. If
you
find you're having some of these symptoms and they're unexplained or
you think they are just "allergies", you may want
to check the ingredients in your cosmetics and hair and skin products.
I saw a news report of a woman whose son was having life
threatening symptoms for years. The doctors could not explain
what the problem was. She began to keep a diary and realized
his
symptoms were
worst on Tuesday (the day after the day she cleaned her house).
She
threw out all her commercial cleansers and began using natural
alternatives. Soon, her son's condition cleared up.
This is
an extreme case and we are in no way suggesting you throw out all your
current
products. However, if you are having a problem, you may want
to consider what's in what you're putting on your hair and skin.
Whether you choose to strictly adhere to these lists is, of course, up
to you. Just be aware that not everyone agrees all these
ingredients should be avoided at all costs. Many of the
ingredients are OK in moderation. Some are almost unavoidable
in
certain circumstances (like alcohol in waterless scalp
cleansers). If you're allergy prone, you may want to pay
particular attention to
this list. For your children, you should pay particular
attention
to this list as many of these chemicals will have a more detrimental
effect in children. Pregnant women should be careful with
some
of these ingredients. The reactions listed
to these
chemicals are the reactions of people who are highly sensitive or are
exposed to
highly concentrated doses. If these
ingredients are in
the products you use, you want them to be near the end of the listing
of the ingredients. So, with those caveats, here is the list:
Urea (Imidazolidinyl) & DMDM
Hydantoin
These are preservatives that release formaldehyde.
Formaldehyde can irritate the respiratory system, cause skin
reactions and trigger heart palpitations. Exposure to formaldehyde
may cause joint pain, allergies, depression, headaches, chest pains,
ear infections, chronic fatigue, dizziness, and loss of sleep. It
can also aggravate coughs and colds, and trigger asthma. Other possible
side effects include weakening the immune system and cancer.
Formaldehyde releasing ingredients are very common in nearly
all
store brands of skin,
body, and hair care, antiperspirants, and nail polish.
Methyl, Propyl, Butyl, and Ethyl Paraben
Researchers from the Department of Biology and Biochemistry of Brunel
University in the United Kingdom have conducted a study and found that
the parabens – alkyl hydroxy parabens — alpha
hydroxy benzoate
(methyl-, ethyl-, propyl-, and butyl-paraben) are weakly estrogenic. In
other words, these preservatives have a similar effect in the body of
estrogen. They are used as inhibitors of microbial growth to
extend the shelf life of products. These are extremely common
preservatives and are generally thought to be safe. They are
almost impossible to avoid.
Petrolatum and Mineral Oil
Present in many most lip products which is ironic because the balms
they are in are supposed to protect from the sun and
prevent chapping. Petrolatum is mineral oil jelly, and mineral
oil can cause problems when used on the skin. Baby oil is
100% mineral oil. Mineral oil actually coats the skin
interfering
with its ability to breathe. It disrupts the skins natural
immune barrier and inhibits its ability to breathe and absorb moisture
and nutrition. It's important that the skin be able to
release
toxins and mineral oil disrupts this. It can also cause the
skin
to age prematurely.
PEGs (PolyEthylene Glycol) and Propylene Glycol
PEGs are used to thicken products. Propylene
Glycol is the active ingredient in automobile antifreeze, this is
found in all kinds of personal care products. Propylene
Glycol
is known for its ability to penetrate the skin.
Sodium Lauryl Sulfate or Sodium Laureth Sulfate
These are used in shampoos for their detergent and
foam building abilities. They can cause causes eye irritations
and allergic reactions. An American College of Toxicology study
also reports: "Both Sodium and Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate appear to
be safe in formulations designed for discontinuous, brief use followed
by thorough rinsing from the surface of the skin. In products intended
for prolonged contact with skin, concentrations should not exceed 1%."
There is concern they may cause problems with developing
eyes (in young children). These are also in toothpaste.
Synthetic Colors
Many synthetic colors are used to make a cosmetic "pretty". They will
be labeled as FD C or D C, followed by a color and a number. Example:
FD C Red No. 6 / D C Green No. 6. Synthetic colors may be cancer
causing agents. According to A Consumers Dictionary of
Cosmetic
Ingredients, “....many [pigments] cause skin sensitivity and
irritation....and absorption [of certain colors] can cause depletion of
oxygen in the body, and death”. In Home Safe Home, author
Debra Lynn
Dadd says that “....colors that can be used in foods, drugs,
and
cosmetics....are made from coal tar. There is a great deal of
controversy about their use, because animal studies have shown almost
all of them to be carcinogenic.” The really
irritating thing
about synthetic colors is they are completely unnecessary except we
expect certain colors in products. If we'd stop buying these
artificially colored products, the manufacturers would be more than
happy to not have to use the colorings.
Synthetic Fragrances
Most deodorants, shampoos, sunscreens, skin care, body care, and baby
products contain fragrance. Many of the compounds in fragrances are
carcinogenic or otherwise toxic. “Fragrance on
a label can indicate the presence of many (we've seen numbers ranging
from 200 to 4,000) separate ingredients. Most, or all, of them are
synthetic. Symptoms reported to the FDA have included headaches,
dizziness,
rashes, skin discoloration, violent coughing and vomiting, and allergic
skin irritation.
DEA, MEA, TEA (diethanolamine, monoethanolamine, and
triethanolmine)
These are hormone-disrupting chemicals known to form nitrates and
nitrosamines, often in conjunction with other chemicals present in a
product, e.g., Cocamide DEA, or Lauramide DEA. They
are almost always in products that foam; bubble bath, body wash,
shampoo, soap, facial cleanser. A Federal government study says that
DEA and DEA-based detergents have been shown to greatly increase the
risk of cancer, especially liver and kidney cancer…." Often
used in
cosmetics to adjust the pH, and used with many fatty acids to convert
acid to salt (stearate), which then becomes the base for a cleanser.
TEA can cause
allergic reactions including eye problems, dryness of hair and skin.
Isopropyl Alcohol
As a solvent and denaturant (a poisonous substance
that changes another substance's natural qualities), alcohol is
found in hair color rinses, body rubs, hand lotions, after-shave
lotions, fragrances, and many other cosmetics and personal care
products.
A petroleum-derived substance, it is also used in antifreeze and as
a solvent in shellac and diluted essential oils. According to A
Consumer’s Dictionary of Cosmetic Ingredients, ingestion or
inhalation
of the vapor may cause headaches, flushing dizziness, mental
depressions, nausea, vomiting, narcosis, anesthesia, and coma.
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