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Black Hair Care Tips, Style and FAQs

This is a list of some of the questions we get most often concerning black hair care.  If you don't see your question answered here, feel free to e-mail us and we will get an answer back to you as soon as possible.  At the end of this article, there are links to other sites that have more information on black hair care.  
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FAQs
How is African or Textured hair structured?
How does a relaxer work?
Are no lye relaxers better and/or milder?
What about natural relaxers?
What do I look for in a stylist to put in my relaxer?
Can I remove a relaxer from my hair?
What is my hair type?
What are the black hair care basics?
How do I deep condition my hair?
How often should I wash my hair?
How do I handle natural hair?
Why does my natural hair look so dull?
How do I care for permed hair?
Which oils should I use (and avoid)?
Should I go permed or natural?
How do I transition from permed to natural hair?
What's a good transition hair style?
Is there a pill to fix my hair problems?
Is there something that will make my hair grow really fast?
How do I care for my child's hair?
Should I use "natural" products?
What is Shea Butter?
How can I regrow lost hair?
Where can I find some good hair styles for me?
How do I start and maintain locks?
What ingredients should I avoid?
Where can I find more information (other black hair care sites)?

African American Hair Structure

What's different about our hair?  Why do we need different products and routines?  African hair is made of the same “stuff” as non-African hair.  The difference lies in the way those components are put together or the structure of our hair.  The structure of our hair can cause it to be more prone to breakage and dryness.  Because of this, black hair care needs are different from those for other types of hair.  Our hair can have up to twice the amount of “cuticle” or outer layer.  Our hair is kinkier which makes it more difficult for the oil secreted from our scalps to reach the ends of the hair.  But, keep in mind there is a continuum of hair types.  Especially since most of us are of mixed heritage, African American hair and bi-racial people's hair can vary widely.  Even within a single head of hair, there are different hair types.   So, there is no one solution for the care of all African American hair.  However, it is helpful to know, generally, what type of hair you have.  This link http://www.ourhair.net  will take you to a site where you can determine your hair type.  Intuitively, you might think African hair is "tougher" than Caucasian hair and can handle more stress or abuse.  After all, it is coarser and thicker.  Actually, African hair (especially if treated like European hair) is more fragile than Caucasian hair.  For this reason, we suggest using products made especially for our hair, whenever possible.  Today, there is a wide range of excellent products made specifically for the needs of African American or Textured hair.

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The parts that make up your hair are:

Cuticle: Outer layer of the hair. It is made up of layers of scales which interlock with the cells of the hair's inner root sheath to firmly anchor it in the follicle.  This is a thin and colorless layer.  Black hairs cuticle layer can be twice the thickness of that of white hair.

Cortex: The middle layer. It is composed of cells which are tightly bound around one another. These bands provide the hair with elasticity and strength and are very receptive to chemicals.  As a result, they can easily be influenced (or damaged) by dyes and relaxers.

Melanin: is contained in the cortex and is the substance that determines the color of our hair and skin. The more melanin, the darker the hair or skin.

Follicle: This is the name for hair before it emerges from the skin. Follicles are composed of many elements including carbon, hydrogen and oxygen. Healthy amounts of these elements can improve the hairs' condition and appearance once it emerges.

Sebaceous/Sudoniferous Glands: Attached to the hair follicle are the sebaceous (oil) and the sudoriferous (sweat) glands. The sebaceous glands open and close continuously to release a waxy sebum oil into the hair follicle and onto the scalp. The sudoriferous glands contain many small structures with porous openings leading to the skin. They produce substances which dry on the skin including salts, acids, water and bacteria. If not completely dissolved and effectively removed from the scalp, they can help cause severe itching and dandruff.  Thus, the scalp problems some people experience in the early stages of locs.

How does a relaxer work?

Time for a really quick science lesson (keep reading, it will be really quick and painless, I promise).  There is a scale called a pH scale.  It ranges from 0-14.  Water is right in the middle with a pH of 7 and is "neutral" (neither acidic or basic). Substances with higher pH are called alkali, caustic or basic. Solutions with lower pH are called acidic.  The farther from the number 7 (either high or low), the more the solution will do in terms of burning or breaking chemical bonds.  The pH scale is a logarithmic scale.  What that means is a whole number difference is greater than you might think.  A solution that is pH 8 is ten times more basic than a solution that is ph 7.  One that is a pH 5 is 100 times more acidic than a pH 7. That's as far as we need to go for our purposes.  End of lesson.  Relaxers, whether lye or no lye, have a very high pH (very near the top of the scale).  In other words, they are caustic.

Relaxers work on the same principle as commercial products like Liquid Plumr® that you'd buy to remove hair from your sink or drain.  Relaxers break the hair down.  Relaxers work because they break the bonds that actually give strength to the hair.  This causes the hair to straighten.  Therefore, relaxed hair is, by definition, weaker than natural hair.  Relaxers also deplete the hair of sebum (the oil your scalp secretes).  Combine that with heat and you can really end up with a problem.  That's why it is of the utmost importance to be careful when putting in relaxers and to give relaxed hair the best care possible.

Does this mean we are against relaxers?  Absolutely not.  If a quality relaxer is applied properly and the hair is maintained properly, your hair can definitely be healthy.  However, your hair will be weaker than if it were natural and will be more prone to problems.   These problems are not insurmountable as long as you are aware of how to take care of your hair.

Many people have asked us why we don't sell relaxers.  Our policy is that we do not sell relaxers because we think they should be applied by a professional in a salon setting.  Back to top

Are no lye relaxers better and/or milder?

There is a myth that no-lye relaxers take all the worry out of straightening the hair.  Pardon the pun, but that's a lie (lye).  No-lye relaxers are more gentle on the scalp.  But, the FDA (Food & Drug Administration) has received complaints of scalp irritation from no-lye relaxers as well as lye relaxers.  The same safety precautions apply to both. Lye relaxers contain sodium hydroxide as the active ingredient. With no-lye relaxers, calcium hydroxide and guanidine carbonate are mixed to produce guanidine hydroxide. It's the hydroxide that makes the relaxer reactive (basic) and the way they work is the same.  Many people have reported no-lye relaxers leave their hair more dull and have gone back to lye relaxers.  If you're having problems with scalp irritation using a lye relaxer, you might want to try a no-lye relaxer.  But, don't believe that it's somehow more healthy for your hair.  Back to top

How about natural relaxers?

There are products on the market that call themselves "natural relaxers".  We have gotten many questions about them.  After doing a lot of research, we have finally found a natural relaxer we can sell with confidence.  That relaxer is the Natural-Laxer MIXTM from Baka Beauty Products.  However, the term "relaxer", in this case, may be misleading.  We think that may be why the natural relaxers have gotten a bad rap.

The natural relaxer we sell is an all herbal hair treatment.  It is kind of an herbal texturizer.  It is not a straightener.  You simply are not going to get kinky black hair to become bone straight in an "all natural" way.  What our relaxer does is gradually allow the natural curl pattern to relax.  This causes the hair to be less kinky and somewhat straighter.  It also makes the hair softer.  Some interesting side effects of this relaxer is that you end up with less tangles, less breakage and the hair is actually strengthened and encouraged to grow by the relaxer.  The relaxer also helps prevent reversion of pressed hair.  The relaxer works with a cumulative effect.  After the first application or two, the differences will be subtle, but noticeable.  Over time, the relaxer makes the hair softer and softer.  This is an excellent treatment for damaged permed hair, an aid in transition from perms to natural hair or a conditioner/detangler for natural hair.  Back to top

What do I look for in a stylist to put in my relaxer?

First of all, find someone with hair you like and ask her where she gets her hair done.  If she lets you touch her hair, touch it to make sure it's healthy (please ask first!).  Talk to the stylist before you make an appointment.  Make sure she seems professional and knows what she's doing.  A bad perm is  a horrible thing.  You could end up with damaged hair, bald or even permanently disfigured.  And, remember a perm is permanent.  Mess one up and that hair is ruined permanently (until you cut it off).

Before she begins:
  • She should check the condition of your hair and scalp before she begins.  If your hair is weak or your scalp has any cuts, scrapes or sores, she should not do the perm.  A perm on already weak hair can cause your hair to break off.  A perm on a scalp that is not healthy can be absorbed into the body and cause problems.

  • She should check for allergic reaction and test the perm on a strand of your hair

  • She should choose a perm appropriate for your type of hair.  Not all relaxers are the same. Some are more reactive (stronger) than others.  The stylist should consider- whether your hair has been relaxed before (touch up or retouch), whether your hair has never been relaxed (virgin), whether your hair is colored and whether your hair is fine or coarse.

  • She should protect your skin (and clothes) with a cape and or a towel

  • She should protect your scalp with a jelly or thick cream

Once she begins:
  • Once the stylist starts applying your perm, she should pay attention to your head and not talking on the phone, taking lunch breaks or attending to other clients.  Applying a perm requires her complete attention.  She should work quickly to avoid over-relaxing your hair and/or burning your skin.

  • Retouches should only be done on new growth.  This is a common mistake people make when putting in perms at home.  I know I used to.  Do not keep relaxing the ends of your hair over and over again.

  • Your stylist should use a timer (and pay attention to the timer).  It's always better to leave the hair a little underdone than overdone.  Even with the timer, she should check your hair continuously.

After she's done:
  • She should  rinse your hair very well with warm water.

  • She should wash your hair with a neutralizing shampoo.  It's important to use a shampoo with a lower pH to neutralize the high pH of the relaxer.  The reason this is important is the pH of the neutralizing shampoo stops the reaction of the lye.  Using a regular shampoo will allow your hair to continue to break down beyond the point where you want it to be.

  • She should rinse your hair again.

  • Before it is dried, she should deep condition the hair

  • She should handle your hair gently as she's drying and styling it.
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Can I remove a relaxer from my hair?

If you've read this far, you probably already realize the answer is "no".  Permanents are called permanent for good reason.  The bonds in the hair are destroyed when the hair is relaxed.  The part of the hair that has been relaxed will  never be "natural" again.  The only way to get rid of relaxed hair is to cut it off or wait for it to break off.  Waiting for the hair to break off is not a good transition option.  But, some women choose it because they are uncomfortable giving up the length they've worked hard to get.  There are ways to transition from relaxed hair to natural hair.  But, the relaxed hair will never be natural again.    Back to top

What is my hair type?

You may ask "Why should I care?"  Well, mostly you shouldn't.  But, knowing your hair type will allow you talk with others and research products, styles and regimens that are best for your particular hair.  There are controversies surrounding hair type methodologies that use works like kinky, nappy and other words that have less than positive connotations for some people.  Others that use numbers, tend to lump all African American hair into one big category.  There is a system called LOIS that uses the hair shape as the defining hair "type".  For more on LOIS, see http://www.ourhair.net/hairtype.htm  Until many people switch over to the LOIS system, there is the numbering system by Andre Walker.  That is described at the same web-site.  Back to top

What are the hair care basics?

You should picture your hair as a collection of fine fibers.  You should treat it as gently as you would a fine washable silk blouse.  The better you treat your hair, the easier it will be to grow and the better it will look. African hair will tend to be dryer and more prone to breakage because the structure makes it more difficult for the oils to work their way from the scalp to the ends of the hair.  If you relax your hair, you've weakened the hair and reduced the ability for the scalp to naturally oil it. The points where the hair curls and twists are also points where the hair tends to break.  The more of these points (as in African hair), the more the hair is prone to breakage.   Also, because our hair is kinky, it tends to tangle more and pulling these tangles out can cause breakage.

  • Either section the hair and plait it, tie it back or wrap it up using a scarf before going to bed, this will reduce the number of tangles you have to comb out the next morning, reducing the chances of breaking your hair. 

  • Sleep with a satin scarf or sleep cap on your head or with a satin pillow case.  This helps avoid split ends caused by the rubbing of your hair against a "rough" cotton pillow case.  It also avoids moisture being wicked out of your hair into your cotton pillow case.

  • Wash your hair no more often than every week to week and a half.  More than that can dry it out.

  • Comb your hair out while you're conditioning it to remove the tangles while it's wet and relatively slick.

  • Oil your scalp on a regular basis with a good natural oil like shea butter.  A daily moisturizer is not a bad idea.

  • Do a deep conditioner or hot oil treatment once a month.

  • Massage your scalp on a regular basis to promote circulation and oil production.

  • Avoid overuse of products with mineral oil or petroleum.  They tend to block the pores and are not readily absorbed.  If your mother used Vaseline® on your hair, stop.

  • If you exercise and sweat, rinse the salt out of your hair even if you don't wash it.  Condition it afterwards with a daily leave-in conditioner.

  • Always use a leave-in conditioner after washing your hair.

  • Put as little heat as possible on your hair.  Heat, especially combined with perms is very damaging to hair.

  • Avoid alcohol based products unless you have a need for a water-free shampoo to cleanse your scalp (for example while you're waiting for your locks to lock).

  • Remember that water (moisture) is your friend and get  plenty- inside and out.  If you used to press your hair or blow it out and learned to fear water on your hair because it would draw up, you need to get over this.  Spritzing a little water on your hair every day is a good idea.  Get a spray bottle and just spray it just a little.

  • Eat a proper diet.  Vitamins and protein are essential for proper hair growth. We have nutritional supplements specifically designed for hair and skin health.  Hair Growth Supplements

  • Find a style that works with your natural hair type and growth pattern.  The less you work against your hair, the less stressed it will be.

  • Do not relax your hair until it is bone straight.  This is just asking for trouble.  Why relax your hair until it has absolutely no body or curl and then put heat on it to try to get that curl back?  

Some tools you should have in your kit
  • A good shampoo: They will be more expensive.  But, they'll use more gentle cleansers and be more concentrated.  You may find they save you money in the long run.  And, your hair will definitely show the difference.  We offer several.

  • A good acidifier (a conditioner with a low pH): Acidifying the hair adds shine and detangles.

  • A good hot oil treatment or deep conditioner:  It is an all natural based shea butter treatment.  Apply the conditioner or hot oil treatment to the hair and scalp, cover with a plastic cap and sit under a dryer for 15-20 minutes.  Alternatively, you can wrap your head in a towel.  Then wash the hair thoroughly.  This is very important for dry brittle hair.  We have several here:  Hair Repair Products

  • A good leave in conditioner or daily moisturizer:  This is what you'll put on your hair after you've thoroughly cleaned it to continue to provide oil and moisture.

  • A comb for your hair type.  Don't try to drag one of those skinny toothed combs through your natural kinky or curly hair.  You'll just end up pulling it out and breaking it off.

  • A good boar bristle brush (use sparingly though)

  • A spray bottle to mist your hair

  • A scarf, cap, or wrap to wear on your head at night- or a satin pillow case (well, two)

How do I deep condition my hair?

A good hot oil treatment or deep conditioner is essential.  Hair Repair Products  Apply the conditioner or hot oil treatment to the hair and scalp, cover with a plastic cap and sit under a dryer for 15-20 minutes.  Alternatively, you can wrap your head in a towel.  Then wash the hair thoroughly.  This is very important for dry brittle hair.

Which oils should I use (and avoid)?

Oils, pomades, daily moisturizers, leave-in conditioner and creams will make the hair feel more soft and flexible.  They are particularly important to be added to permed hair which has been stripped of some of its ability to oil itself.  Mineral oil and petroleum use should be minimized or avoided.  These products can tend to clog the pores, are not easily absorbed into the hair and attract dust.  If you use products with these oils, try to use the ones that have the least amount.  Generally, the further down the ingredient list, the less there will be in a product.  So, try to use products where these are listed near the end.

Some natural oils to try are shea butter, jojoba oil, olive oil, and sunflower oil.  We have a great selection of oils, pomades and moisturizers for every hair type and  style.

Oils are best applied to wet hair to help hold in the moisture already there.  Creams or leave-in conditioners can be used on days when you don't wash or wet your hair.  The type of oil or cream you use in your hair is going to depend on your hair type and may take a little it of experimenting to find what works best for you. Also, the time of year and your hair's exposure to the elements will vary your routine.   Back to top

How often should I wash my hair?

This will depend on your hair type and how prone your hair is to drying or becoming oily.  As we said earlier, not all African Americans have the same type of hair.  Generally speaking, our hair tends to be dry and shampooing too often will worsen that.  Rinsing your hair with plain water every day and washing once every week to ten days works for most of us.  Bi-racial people may want to wash their hair more often as it may tend to be more oily.  BTW, when you dry your hair, do not rub it.  Rubbing your hair can cause breakage.  Blot it with a towel.  Back to top

How do I handle natural hair?

If you have super curly, kinky or (dare we say it?) nappy hair, your hair is best handled wet.  You may find it easiest to comb it with a wide tooth comb while in the shower.  Give up on that skinny little European comb and get one made for your hair.  Try to avoid combing your hair while dry as the comb will tend to catch and break the hair.  If you need to comb your hair while it's dry, be gentle.  Try to spritz with some water or a cream first. You can use an unbraid product like Black Earth's Protective Mist Bodifier or Royal Roots Detangler.   If you're unbraiding your hair and get to some tangles, pull them loose with your fingers before you go on combing.  Other than this, follow the basic guidelines above.  Back to top

Why is my natural hair so dull looking?

This is a question we get quite often.  First, we need to set some expectations.  With the obvious caveats about how we all have different hair types due to our diverse ancestries, Natural African hair is going to appear more dull than Caucasian hair or even permed hair.  It's just the structure of our hair.  Our cuticles on our hair, because of the curvature do not lay flat. Flat cuticles reflect light better making that hair appear shinier.  If you try to make your hair shine like someone with permed hair or a White person, you're going to end up making a mess of your hair.

Having said that, we can make our natural hair look very healthy.  There are two things that many of don't get enough of on our hair- Water and Oil.  Make sure you are drinking plenty of fluids and wash your hair often enough (as described elsewhere in this paper).  Make sure you are oiling your hair with good, natural oils that the hair can absorb.  Too much of the wrong kind of oils, can actually damage the ability of the hair to absorb moisture and make the hair appear even more dull.  Natural African hair is beautiful. But, it must be maintained properly to be and appear healthy.

How do I handle permed hair?

First of all, make sure you have a good stylist.  If you do apply your perm at home (which we do not encourage), be sure you follow the directions religiously.  Make sure you apply touch ups only to new growth.  Do not overlap the perm on to the already permed hair.  Follow the general directions for hair care above.

Now...
  • Dry your hair slowly and with as little heat as possible.  I try to allow a couple of hours to wash my hair.  I wash it and towel blot it.  I apply a hair and scalp oil.  Then,  I walk around the house for a couple of hours and let it air dry as much as possible.  Finally, I blow it dry the rest of the way and begin my conditioning and styling routine.

  • Wet your hair as much as possible (at least twice a week).  Spritz it with water daily or rinse it in the shower every day or two.

  • Use a leave-in conditioner and/or moisturizing pomade.  Again, this is especially important for relaxed hair as you've stripped the hair of some of its ability to oil itself and its protection against moisture loss.

  • Have your hair trimmed on a regular basis (whenever you have a perm applied).  If your ends split, this split can travel along the hair shaft causing damage to the hair further up.  Don't hang on to damaged hair for the sake of its length.  If your hair has been damaged by a bad perm or general abuse, trim it back and let the healthy hair grow out to make up for it.  Keeping the damaged hair around can actually begin to damage the healthy hair.

  • Touch up frequency  will vary depending on your hair type and how fast it grows.  I need to go pretty often.  Two to three months is fairly normal.

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Should I go permed or natural?

You didn't really think we were going to answer this one.  Did you?  This is one of the hottest debates I've run across in years.  Our job is to inform you and let you make the best decision for yourself.  There are pros and cons to each.  This is a highly personal decision.  Don't go natural to please those sisters who think all women who wear perms are selling out to the white man and have low self esteem.  Don't wear a perm because you feel that going natural is a political statement that you don't want to make.  Having said that, the reality is that if you go natural, some people will assume certain things about your political and social points of view.  If you wear a perm, some people will think you have low self esteem.  

Permed or Relaxed
  • Generally the norm in the U.S.
  • Easy to style the hair
  • Hard on the hair- works by actually breaking the hair down
  • Require diligent care to keep the hair healthy

Natural
  • Back to nature
  • Some do it for religious reasons (locks) or political reasons- you may be lumped into this category by strangers
  • Have cost some people jobs- a man was fired for wearing locks (upheld in court).  A woman was fired for wearing two-strand twists.
  • May require greater self esteem to put up with the looks and comments
  • Better for the hair
  • Easier to maintain
  • Less styling options (debatable)
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How do I transition from relaxed to natural hair?

This one is a very frequently asked question.  We get calls and e-mails from people hoping we can tell them what they want to hear.  The true answer is there is no really quick or easy way.  To reiterate (in case you haven't read the other questions).  A relaxer is permanent.  It cannot be removed.  There are no products that will remove a relaxer (other than scissors).  If you want to just grow your hair out to a natural state, be prepared for breakage.  Baka Beautiful's Natural-Laxer Plus is a great product if you want to maintain your length while transitioning.  We cannot guarantee there will be no breakage.  But, the Natural-Laxer can definitely help minimize it.  There are three good ways to transition:
  • Cut off the relaxed hair- depending on how much new growth and your preferences you have a few styling options.  You can wear a TWA (tweeny weeny afro) or two strand twists pretty easily with almost any length hair.  For other styling ideas, see http://www.ourhair.net or http://www.hairweb.com

  • Braids and/or extensions- you can have your hair braided until it grows to a length where you feel comfortable cutting off the new growth and going with other styling options

  • SisterlocksTM- SisterLocks can be started with one and one half inches of new growth at the scalp.  They are similar to dread locks but with a look more like micro braids or very small twists.  They leave you with many styling options.  For more information (including pictures) go to http://www.sisterlocks.com

  • Find a transition style- This great tip was given to us by one of our customers.  "I just wanted to send you another hair styling option for those who don't know what to do while growing out a perm and going natural. I recently did this and when my roots began growing out, I would wet my hair and add oil to it, then braid it while it was wet (Black Earth's Crinkles & Curls Styling Lotion would be perfect for this). After it dried, my hair was left wavy and with lots of texture and this helped to blend the natural roots with the permed ends. It is important to keep your ends clipped regularly during this process so that your split ends do not continue up the hair shaft and damage the natural hair. I was able to wear my hair like this until I was comfortable with cutting all of my permed hair off and wearing my 'fro." (thanks Sheena!)

Trying to transition in other ways, like pressing the natural hair as it grows in underneath the relaxed hair, are going to make your hair prone to breakage and can damage the natural hair you're trying to grow in.  We do not recommend it.  While transitioning, try to find a style that will accomodate the new growth coming in like twists or braids.  

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Is there a pill to fix my hair problems?

The short answer is "no".   Well, actually, the answer is "yes and no".   Proper nutrition is essential for the health of your hair and protein is necessary.  We do offer supplements that can help with the health of your hair and skin.  Hair Growth Supplements However, there is no pill that will overcome the damage you do to you hair by not properly maintaining it.  Taking proper care of  your hair is the only way to ensure it will remain healthy.  There is nothing you can put in your mouth or put on your hair to make it begin growing like a chia pet (at least nothing that you'd really want in your body or on your hair).  The way to fix your hair problems is the old fashioned way "Earn it".  You've got to develop a healthy regimen for your hair and stick to it.  Back to top

Is there something that will make my hair grow really fast?

There are medications that will make your hair grow.  For men, there is Minoxidil (aka Rogaine®) and Propecia®.  For women, there is Rogaine.  There are also supplements that can help with hair growth (see the link above for our Hair Growth Supplements).  If your hair is damaged, your nutrition is not optimal (and whose is?) or you have a scalp condition there are things that can promote normal hair growth that will make it appear your hair is growing faster.  Also, if you hair is breaking off, it will appear that it is not growing.  By preventing that breakage, your hair will become longer.  Before you run out and buy a super pill or an ointment, make sure you're doing the day-to-day things to give your hair a chance to grow on its own.

Our Treasured Locks H2G Hair Growth Serum is a topical (you rub it on your scalp) product that can help with hair growth.  Our hair growth oil is a carefully selected blend of Emu Oil, Shea Butter Oil and other plant oils along with some Essential Oils that have been clinically shown to improve circulation, provide moisture, reduce inflammation and help hair grow to its fullest potential.   See our Hair Growth Supplements for more information.
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How do I care for my child's hair?

The same basic principles apply.  Find a good children's shampoo if your child is very young (so that it won't burn the eyes).  However, as soon as you can, move away from these. They tend to be drying for African American hair.  I recommend avoiding perms for as long as possible. Children have more sensitive skin than adults.  The chemicals in the perms are more likely to damage their skin and hair.  Also, they don't usually have the patience to sit through the process of getting the perm.  My stylist told me the story of a three year old girl she was trying to give a perm.  Once the perm was in, the child decided she was ready to leave.  The stylist had to literally wrestle the child to rinse the perm out of her hair.  My older daughter is almost six now and has very thick and coarse hair.  Her hair is natural.  I did a lot of research on the best way to care for it (one of the things that motivated me to open this store).  I intend to leave her hair natural as long as possible.  It's really not any more difficult to care for than if she had a perm.  We use the natural relaxer on her hair to make it more manageable (not straight).  That and just using the basic tips above have made caring for her natural hair much easier, she has less breakage and tangles than she used to and we love the way her hair looks natural.  Back to top

Should I use only "natural" products?

First of all, natural is a relative term.  Once you mix two ingredients together, one could argue the product is not "all natural".  We believe that God put many wonderful things on this earth to take care of our bodies inside and out.  Generally, speaking the less refined or manipulated a product the better.  However, we also believe God gave man the ability to improve on his environment and some chemical formulations (especially medicines) are extremely beneficial.  We promote products that we believe are healthy for your hair.  All things being equal, we prefer natural products over highly refined products.  Even when man tries to recreate nature by manufacturing or refining products (as in the case of multivitamins versus fresh fruits or vegetables) he often damages the delicate trace substances in or leaves things out.  However, all natural products will be less stable, may not look as nice, will be more expensive and will have shorter shelf lives than less natural products.  If you like a lot of lather, you may be disappointed with all natural shampoos.  So, the decision is really up to you.  We use both all natural product and less natural products.  Back to top

What is Shea Butter?

We're glad you asked.  Shea Butter is a natural moisturizer derived from the nut of a tree (the Karite tree) that grows exclusively in West Africa.  It is highly prized for its benefits to both hair and skin.  It can treat a variety of skin conditions including eczema, psoriasis, dry skin, stretch marks, etc.  I personally have used it to eliminate an allergic reaction to the sun I've had for the past 10 years or so (every summer).  My sister-in-law and another friend (with different sun sensitivities) have experiences the same thing.  Shea Butter is easily absorbed into the hair and skin and can be used on the face also (it's non-greasy).  For more details, see  
http://www.treasuredlocks.com/shebutben.html  Back to top

How can I regrow lost hair?

That depends on how and why you lost your hair.  It's easier for us to tell you what not to do than what to do.  Do not go for any "miracle" cures.  Anything that claims it can grow hair on a cue ball should be avoided.  Our Hair Growth Supplements are very effective for a variety of types of hair loss.  But, they will not cure all baldness.  Minoxidil has been shown to be effective for women with a certain type of hair loss.  If you think you need Minoxidil, you should see your doctor.  

If you're a male an have lost your hair due to the natural aging process, please do not spend tons of money on things that don't work.  There are only two medically proven treatments.  One is Finasteride (aka Propecia).  Propecia is a blood pressure medication that has the side effect of growing hair.  The other is Minoxidil.  Both work in about 30-40% of cases and both only work on what is called male pattern baldness (thinning from the crown of the head).  Minoxidil has worked, in combination with other treatments, on frontal balding.  But, not often enough for the FDA to allow the manufacturer to make the claim.  Both drugs must be taken forever, to continue to be effective.  Any gains made by the drugs will go away within a few weeks if they are discontinued.  Propecia has been known to cause sexual dysfunction in a small number of patients.  Minoxidil has been known to cause scalp irritation.  Minoxidil must be applied every day (two times/day is better) directly to the scalp and massaged in.  Due to the hassle, cost, possible side effects and limited effectiveness of both drugs whether you take them is a personal choice.  If you ever see my husband, you'll see he opted to let nature take its course.  Back to top

Where can I find some good hair styles for me?

There are a few good places we can suggest.  http://www.ourhair.net for natural and relaxed styles.  http://www.hairweb.com and http://www.naani.com for natural hair style alternatives.  These sites have styles and some tips for how to do them.  Back to top

How do I start and maintain locks?

The answers to this question could fill a book or at least an entire website.  We've found two good sources we like. http://www.perfectdreads.com gives detailed information about how to start dreads.  http://www.naani.com also has excellent information on maintaining dreads.

What ingredients should I avoid?

There are several "ingredients to avoid" lists out there.  Here are some of the ingredients we found on those lists and why they're there.  Some of our products do contain ingredients on the "avoid" list.  Why?  Frankly, there are very, very few products that do not contain at least some of these ingredients.  It has been estimated that 99% of cosmetic products contain some form of paraben (a preservative).  If you think that's scary, after looking at this list, look at your toothpaste and deodorant ingredients.

So, avoiding these ingredients is extremely difficult.  If you do find completely natural alternatives, they're probably going to be expensive and may have a short shelf life.  Your choices are going to be limited.  While researching this topic, we found a source with some very harsh warnings.  It could almost make you scared to put anything in your mouth or on your body (including just plain old soap).  The site listed some frequently asked questions, which were mainly "What should I use instead?"  They had almost no answers for anything.  This highlights how difficult it is to completely avoid these ingredients.  And, it's debatable whether you should even try.  Our philosophy is do what you can to avoid high concentrations of these ingredients and look for natural alternatives where available.  

We present this list to you as a guide for your reference.  If you find you're having some of these symptoms and they're unexplained or you think they are just "allergies", you may want to check the ingredients in your cosmetics and hair and skin products.  I saw a news report of a woman whose son was having life threatening symptoms for years.  The doctors could not explain what the problem was.  She began to keep a diary and realized his symptoms were worst on Tuesday (the day after the day she cleaned her house).  She threw out all her commercial cleansers and began using natural alternatives.  Soon, her son's condition cleared up.  This is an extreme case and we are in no way suggesting you throw out all your current products.  However, if you are having a problem, you may want to consider what's in what you're putting on your hair and skin.

Whether you choose to strictly adhere to these lists is, of course, up to you.  Just be aware that not everyone agrees all these ingredients should be avoided at all costs.  Many of the ingredients are OK in moderation.  Some are almost unavoidable in certain circumstances (like alcohol in waterless scalp cleansers).  If you're allergy prone, you may want to pay particular attention to this list.  For your children, you should pay particular attention to this list as many of these chemicals will have a more detrimental effect in children.  Pregnant women should be careful with some of these ingredients.  The reactions listed to these chemicals are the reactions of people who are highly sensitive or are exposed to highly concentrated doses.  If these ingredients are in the products you use, you want them to be near the end of the listing of the ingredients.  So, with those caveats, here is the list:


Urea (Imidazolidinyl) & DMDM Hydantoin
These are preservatives that release formaldehyde.   Formaldehyde can irritate the respiratory system, cause skin reactions and trigger heart palpitations. Exposure to formaldehyde may cause joint pain, allergies, depression, headaches, chest pains, ear infections, chronic fatigue, dizziness, and loss of sleep. It can also aggravate coughs and colds, and trigger asthma. Other possible side effects include weakening the immune system and cancer.  Formaldehyde releasing ingredients are very common in nearly all store brands of skin, body, and hair care, antiperspirants, and nail polish.

Methyl, Propyl, Butyl, and Ethyl Paraben
Researchers from the Department of Biology and Biochemistry of Brunel University in the United Kingdom have conducted a study and found that the parabens – alkyl hydroxy parabens — alpha hydroxy benzoate (methyl-, ethyl-, propyl-, and butyl-paraben) are weakly estrogenic. In other words, these preservatives have a similar effect in the body of estrogen.  They are used as inhibitors of microbial growth to extend the shelf life of products.  These are extremely common preservatives and are generally thought to be safe.  They are almost impossible to avoid.

Petrolatum and Mineral Oil
Present in many most lip products which is ironic because the balms they are in are supposed to protect from the sun and prevent chapping. Petrolatum is mineral oil jelly, and mineral oil can cause problems when used on the skin.  Baby oil is 100% mineral oil.  Mineral oil actually coats the skin interfering with its ability to breathe.  It disrupts the skins natural immune barrier and inhibits its ability to breathe and absorb moisture and nutrition.  It's important that the skin be able to release toxins and mineral oil disrupts this.  It can also cause the skin to age prematurely.

PEGs (PolyEthylene Glycol) and Propylene Glycol
PEGs are used to thicken products.  Propylene Glycol is the active ingredient in automobile antifreeze, this is found in all kinds of personal care products.  Propylene Glycol is known for its ability to penetrate the skin.  

Sodium Lauryl Sulfate or Sodium Laureth Sulfate
These are used in shampoos for their detergent and foam building abilities. They can cause causes eye irritations and allergic reactions. An American College of Toxicology study also reports: "Both Sodium and Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate appear to be safe in formulations designed for discontinuous, brief use followed by thorough rinsing from the surface of the skin. In products intended for prolonged contact with skin, concentrations should not exceed 1%."  There is concern they may cause problems with developing eyes (in young children).  These are also in toothpaste.

Synthetic Colors
Many synthetic colors are used to make a cosmetic "pretty". They will be labeled as FD C or D C, followed by a color and a number. Example: FD C Red No. 6 / D C Green No. 6. Synthetic colors may be cancer causing agents.   According to A Consumers Dictionary of Cosmetic Ingredients, “....many [pigments] cause skin sensitivity and irritation....and absorption [of certain colors] can cause depletion of oxygen in the body, and death”. In Home Safe Home, author Debra Lynn Dadd says that “....colors that can be used in foods, drugs, and cosmetics....are made from coal tar. There is a great deal of controversy about their use, because animal studies have shown almost all of them to be carcinogenic.”  The really irritating thing about synthetic colors is they are completely unnecessary except we expect certain colors in products.  If we'd stop buying these artificially colored products, the manufacturers would be more than happy to not have to use the colorings.

Synthetic  Fragrances
Most deodorants, shampoos, sunscreens, skin care, body care, and baby products contain fragrance. Many of the compounds in fragrances are carcinogenic or otherwise toxic. “Fragrance on a label can indicate the presence of many (we've seen numbers ranging from 200 to 4,000) separate ingredients. Most, or all, of them are synthetic. Symptoms reported to the FDA have included headaches, dizziness, rashes, skin discoloration, violent coughing and vomiting, and allergic skin irritation.

DEA, MEA, TEA (diethanolamine, monoethanolamine, and triethanolmine)
These are hormone-disrupting chemicals known to form nitrates and nitrosamines, often in conjunction with other chemicals present in a product, e.g., Cocamide DEA, or Lauramide DEA. They are almost always in products that foam; bubble bath, body wash, shampoo, soap, facial cleanser. A Federal government study says that DEA and DEA-based detergents have been shown to greatly increase the risk of cancer, especially liver and kidney cancer…." Often used in cosmetics to adjust the pH, and used with many fatty acids to convert acid to salt (stearate), which then becomes the base for a cleanser. TEA can cause allergic reactions including eye problems, dryness of hair and skin.

Isopropyl Alcohol
As a solvent and denaturant (a poisonous substance that changes another substance's natural qualities), alcohol is found in hair color rinses, body rubs, hand lotions, after-shave lotions, fragrances, and many other cosmetics and personal care products. A petroleum-derived substance, it is also used in antifreeze and as a solvent in shellac and diluted essential oils. According to A Consumer’s Dictionary of Cosmetic Ingredients, ingestion or inhalation of the vapor may cause headaches, flushing dizziness, mental depressions, nausea, vomiting, narcosis, anesthesia, and coma.

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